I Need a Change of Scenery!: The Unexpected Pleasures of Bellingham

"Dirty Dan" Harris, founder of Fairhaven

When July arrived this year, I realized that I had not yet made any arrangements for a vacation. I knew that I'd be miserable all winter if I didn't go somewhere that wasn't Chicago (much as I love my adopted hometown), but I had no compelling desire to go anywhere in particular. I had enough money socked away to take a vacation, but not enough that I'd want to blow it all on a poorly planned trip to someplace I would probably appreciate much more with a little time to prepare (I'm talking about you in 2020, Amsterdam!). I kicked around a few ideas -- Montreal, Toronto, New York, San Francisco -- but none seemed more compelling than the others. I even considered spending a nostalgic week in Ocean City, NJ, splashing around in the Atlantic Ocean and eating massive quantities of fresh flounder and Manco & Manco's pizza, as I had in my youthful summers. Eventually I turned to my friends for suggestions. I got a lot of good ones, but the idea that stood out was the one I quickly followed up on: take the Alaska State Ferry up the Inside Passage. When I was younger, I was obsessed with the idea of Alaska. I even considered getting a job as a cook on the pipeline in the 1970s. The fact that I never followed through on that particular plan, with its high probability of ending disastrously, is evidence to me that there may just be a benevolent deity watching over me and protecting me from my own worst instincts; I managed to get myself into enough "interesting" situations here in the lower 48 during my tumultuous youth. A few years later, I was in a relationship with someone who had spent several years working on fishing boats in Alaska, and I loved to hear his stories about it and imagine that someday we two might return there (again, thank you, benevolent hypothetical-deity, for not making that happen. It would definitely not have ended well). Taking a cruise ship through Alaska's waters (or really taking any kind of cruise to anywhere) was not something I've ever had any desire to do, but the ferry sounded like a perfect alternative. My friend Angela, who had suggested the trip, told me that the ferry left from her hometown of Bellingham, WA, so I made the plan to take Amtrak from Chicago to Bellingham, then spend a couple of days there relaxing before setting sail for Sitka, AK, from which I would fly back to Chicago, full of salmon, and visions of eagles and whales, and a ton of happy memories. The plan took shape very quickly, and within a couple of days I'd made all my reservations and was eagerly awaiting my big adventure.

Alas, as you already know if you've been following this blog, it was not to be. A few days before I left, I discovered that the union representing the crews of the Alaska State ferries had gone out on strike--for the first time in 40 years! I supported and sympathized with them entirely, but still hoped the strike would be settled before I got there. So I took a leap of faith onto the Empire Builder and headed west. Somewhere in the great, flat middle of the continent, I received a text officially canceling the ferry ride, but since I was already well on my way, I decided to just keep going and see what developed.

There was another round of good suggestions from friends of other places in the area to visit, but I just had a feeling that, rather than put myself through the stress of trying to throw together another set of elaborate travel plans at the last minute, I would be much happier exploring Bellingham for the week, even though it was a place I knew very little about. Good thinking, me! My week in Bellingham (with side trips to the San Juan Islands) was exactly what I needed, and I ended up falling more than a little in love with the city, especially the Fairhaven district.

Here are fourteen things that make Bellingham awesome (this started out as a Top Ten list, but I kept thinking of more things that I loved there):

1. Beautiful sunsets

2. Beautiful views of the water even when the sun isn't setting

3. Taylor Dock and Boulevard Park

Close up of the man with a feather in his hat

4. Blackberries

Wild blackberries on the path to Boulevard Park. Being careful not
to get caught in the brambles, I'd pick them as I walked and pop
them into my mouth, warm from the sun and unbelievably sweet.

5. Charming shops and cafes

Rocket Donuts
Where else can you eat a delicious lemon donut
under the watchful eye of Gort?

A barbershop window filled with toys

Original box office of the Pickford Theater,
a wonderful art house theater

Village Books and the Colophon Cafe, neither of which I
got a good picture of

5A. First prize goes to ModSock, possibly my favorite store in the universe.

5B. My Moby Dick

I include Fairhaven Fish & Chips even though I've never eaten there. It proved such an elusive prize that it is a major motivation for me to return. I tried three times to eat there, but each time they were closed. The third time was at 4:30 on a Wednesday afternoon, as I was preparing to leave Bellingham. They were supposed to be open until 6:00 but apparently ran out of fish. This only makes me want to eat there even more.

6. A fantastic farmers market on Saturday mornings

7. Beautiful Hotels

7A. Hotel Bellwether

I really appreciated the amenities of the elegant Hotel Bellwether, it was the perfect place to relax after my long train ride and regain my equilibrium while trying to rearrange my plans for the rest of the trip.

Beautiful Hotel Bellwether

Bellwether lobby

Bella, official greeter at the Hotel Bellwether

7B. Fairhaven Village Inn

I'm already looking forward to staying at the Village Inn the next time I'm in Bellingham. It was such a beautiful, comfortable place. Sitting on my balcony in the evenings, watching the day fade into night, while listening to the cries of the seagulls and the occasional sounds of a passing train, was the perfect way to end the day.

Lobby of the Fairhaven Village Inn

The Library

Ornamental birdcage in the lobby

My room was so comfortable!

What a wonderful surprise to find a picture of Nipper, the RCA
Victor logo, over the bed. I grew up in Philadelphia, across the river
from the Camden, NJ headquarters of RCA. There was a stained glass
window depicting Nipper in the factory tower.
So this felt like a visit from an old friend.

7C. Shout-Out to the Days Inn on Samish Way. It wasn't fancy, but the bed was comfortable and the continental breakfast was generous (i.e. there were hard-boiled eggs!). And most importantly, they had a room available at the last minute on a Saturday night.

8. The Whatcom Museum

The main building of the Whatcom Museum is the Old City Hall, built in 1892. The building has a fascinating history, reflecting the many turns of fortune experienced by the city of Bellingham over the past 100+ years. My favorite part of the story is that the architect, Alfred Lee, was self taught, and designed the building by piecing together elements he liked from catalogues and other buildings.

The Old City Hall, now the main building of the Whatcom Museum

This was the treasurer's vault when the building
was the city hall.

Third floor gallery

Who doesn't love a diorama? Especially one with an old-timey train.

A few of the hundreds of taxidermy birds on display on the top floor of Old City Hall. I
chose this picture because the duck at the top looks like he is singing as he flies.

The modern Lightcatcher Building is a newer addition to the museum. In addition to exhibits on the history, culture, and crafts of the Indigenous people of the region, it also houses exhibits like the current show, "Modern Quilts: Designs of the New Century." There was also a haunting collection of salvaged images from damaged glass photographic negatives.